Cammus LC100 pedals explained: price, specs, setup, pros/cons, PC compatibility, and tuning tips. A beginner’s guide to affordable load-cell performance.
Who this is for
Sim racers who want strong, consistent braking and a clear answer to “Are the CAMMUS LC100 pedals good for my setup?” This guide covers specs, real-world fit, what’s in the box, compatibility, and how to tune them on day one—with reliable sources cited.
If you’re on PC and want a budget 3-pedal set with a 100 kg load-cell brake, the LC100 delivers serious value, solid metal construction, and useful adjustability. Version 4 brings tidier wiring and an easier-to-mount baseplate. They’re best on a proper stand/rig, but work on sturdy desks too.
What you actually get (facts & specs)
- Brake: 100 kg load-cell sensor for pressure-based braking.
- Throttle & clutch: Hall-effect sensors (contactless, low wear).
- Construction: Aluminum alloy + cold-rolled steel; steel pedal arms.
- Connectivity & control box: USB Type-C to PC; RJ-11 pedal leads; app/desktop software for calibration and firmware.
- PC requirements: Windows 10, USB 2.0, ~150 MB free space.
- Dimensions (manual): approx 364 × 330 × 260 mm (L×W×H). V4 update reduced baseplate width to ~334 mm for easier mounting.
- V4 improvements: fewer external wires, faster maintenance, and pedal-depth adjust via a limit-sleeve system (keeps feel consistent).
- Price guide: commonly listed around US$259 on CAMMUS’s shop (check stock/warehouse page for your region).
- Official add-on support: 3DRap Elastomer Brake MOD (linear, progressive, or combo stacks).
What’s in the box
Three pedals (throttle, brake, clutch), baseplate, dual-ended Type-C data cable, RJ-11 pedal harness, fastener pack, and documentation—enough to assemble, wire, and calibrate on PC.
How the LC100 feels (and why load-cell matters)
- Pressure = precision. A load-cell brake measures force, not travel. That makes your braking more repeatable, especially for trail-braking and threshold stops. The LC100’s 100 kg cell gives generous headroom, even if you run softer elastomers/springs.
- Smooth throttle/clutch. Hall-effect sensors are contactless, so they stay consistent over time and resist noise/scratchiness.
Adjustability you’ll actually use
- Preload & travel: All three pedals let you change spring preload and add/remove washers to set travel.
- Brake damping & stages: A damping knob and swappable elastomers let you tune initial bite vs. firm end-stroke. (V4’s limit-sleeve lets you shorten/lengthen depth without changing feel.)
- Layout & mounting: Slots on the baseplate allow lateral positioning and easier fit-up on common rigs/stands. V4 narrows the baseplate for better compatibility.
Compatibility (before you buy)
- Platform: Designed for PC (Windows 10+) via USB. CAMMUS’s official docs/manpages emphasize PC and do not claim native PlayStation/Xbox support. If you need console use, you’ll typically need a compatible wheelbase or third-party USB adapter—check those vendors for support first.
- Wheelbases/rigs: Pedals are stand-alone USB, so they’ll work alongside most PC wheelbases (Fanatec, Moza, Logitech, Thrustmaster, etc.). For mounting hole patterns, confirm against your rig’s plate; V4 width (~334 mm) helps on narrow trays.
Setup: day-one checklist (save this)
1. Assemble & mount the three pedals to the baseplate; route RJ-11 leads through the guide slots so they don’t snag.
2. USB to PC, install CAMMUS desktop/app, and calibrate min/max for each pedal. Update firmware if prompted.
3. Initial tuning:
- Throttle: moderate preload so you can feather without fatigue.
- Brake: start mid-stiff with damping at 1–2 (manual suggests keeping within ~2 “gears”), then adjust elastomers for bite.
- Clutch: add a touch more preload if you want a defined bite-point.
4. In-game sensitivity/curves: Leave linear at first; only add curves if you can’t reach 100% comfortably.
5. Test routine: Same car/track (e.g., GT3 @ familiar circuit), log changes for 10-lap stints.
Pros & cons for beginners
Pros
- True load-cell brake (100 kg) at an accessible price.
- All-metal build with contactless Hall sensors on throttle/clutch.
- V4 refinements: narrower base, cleaner wiring, easier maintenance.
- Optional 3DRap Elastomer MOD officially supported for more nuanced brake feel.
Cons
- Best on a rig or solid stand; very light desks may flex with higher brake forces.
- Angle/face ergonomics are basic out of the box (you can tweak with shims, heel plates, or modded faces; many reviewers highlight value but note comfort tweaks).
Nice-to-have upgrades (optional)
- 3DRap Elastomer Brake MOD (officially supported): choose linear/progressive stacks to mimic your preferred car class.
- Heel plate/stop or angled risers if you keep ankles low.
- Pedal faces with more grip/curvature if you drive socks.
- Stiffer rig mount (aluminum profile) to unlock higher brake forces.
Common questions
Will these make me faster right away?
They’ll make braking more consistent—which typically lowers lap times once you calibrate and build muscle memory.
Do they work with my wheelbase?
Yes on PC—they’re a stand-alone USB set, so they pair with most PC wheelbases. Mounting patterns vary; measure your tray and compare to the LC100 base (V4 is narrower at ~334 mm).
Are they console compatible?
Not natively claimed. CAMMUS documentation focuses on PC usage; console support would rely on your wheelbase/adapter ecosystem. Verify with those vendors first.
External resources
- Official product page (V4) + 3DRap MOD notice — specs, pricing, warehouse notes. CAMMUSRACING Simulator
- User manual — dimensions, wiring, calibration and adjustment diagrams. ManualsLib
- V4 update article — what changed vs previous versions (wiring, width, depth adjust). CAMMUSRACING Simulator
- Third-party impressions & value context — budget set with strong performance for the price. Boosted MediaReviews
Final recommendation
If you’re a PC sim racer ready to move beyond potentiometer pedals, the CAMMUS LC100 (V4) is a strong load-cell choice: real pressure-based braking, metal construction, and meaningful adjustability without a premium price. Pair with a sturdy stand/cockpit, spend 15 minutes on calibration, and you’ll feel the difference by your second stint.